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Blog of LA MAISON DU PASSAGE

A Small Village Stay in the South of France

Two Nights in a Small Village in the South of France

The first French word you’ll need in Martignargues is bonjour.
You say it to a neighbor crossing the village square, to the man gathering olives when you pass his grove in the fall, and to Hervé when he opens our door.
By your second morning, you may find yourself saying it first.

We’re François and Hervé, and La Maison du Passage is our home in Martignargues, a small village near Uzès in the South of France.
If your idea of Provence involves sun-warmed stone, wooden shutters, a chilled glass of rosé and a long French dinner, come spend at least two nights with us.
That gives you a whole day between breakfasts — time for the market, a swim and a leisurely evening back at the house.

Old Stone Walls and Air-Conditioned Rooms

Our house has stood on the village square for centuries. A vaulted passage that once guarded the entrance to the village is still part of our home.
When Hervé shows you around, ask him to take you up to the old watchtower.
The terrace looks out over the countryside, and this is a fine spot to settle in with that glass of rosé.

Selected by the MICHELIN Guide, La Maison du Passage is an adults-only boutique guesthouse with just six rooms and suites.
You can sleep beneath an old stone vault or choose a suite with a private hot tub.
And yes, every bedroom has air conditioning. Even the most devoted romantic appreciates that detail on a July afternoon in the South of France.

French Home Cooking and Local Wines at Our Table

If you’re joining us for dinner, save a little room.
In summer, François might bake a thin tomato tart until the edges are crisp, then finish it with a drizzle of olive oil from the Gard.
When the evenings turn cool, he loves a proper b½uf aux carottes. The beef cooks slowly until you can pull it apart with a fork.
The carrots turn sweet, and you’ll want to keep the last piece of baguette for the sauce.
If you’re vegetarian, let us know when you book. With a little notice, François will be happy to cook you a seasonal vegetarian dinner. 

Hervé will help you find a wine to go with it. A chilled local rosé is lovely with the tomato tart, while a red from the Duché d’Uzès comes into its own with the beef.
If you particularly like a bottle, mention it at breakfast. We’ll point you toward a vineyard you can visit while you’re here.

That’s the pleasure of a French table d’hôtes. You have dinner in the house where you’re staying, you know who cooked it, and the walk home is remarkably short. Discover dinner and wines at La Maison du Passage

Why Stay Two Nights? A Market Morning in Uzès

The best morning here is the one when you don’t have to pack. Pour yourself another coffee.
If it’s Wednesday, head into Uzès for the smaller market, where local producers bring what’s in season.
On Saturday, the big market fills the Place aux Herbes. Taste an olive, buy a wedge of cheese and find a café under the arches.
From there, you can enjoy one of the great French pastimes — watching everyone else do their shopping.

Take the country roads back through the vineyards. By midafternoon, there’s still time for a swim.
The stones around the pool are warm, the cicadas are in fine voice, and neither of you has to look up the address of tonight’s hotel.
You already have the key.

Give Martignargues at least two nights on your South of France itinerary. If you can spare a third, we’d spend the extra day in Nîmes exploring the Roman arena.
Ask François for directions and he’ll probably tell you where to have lunch first.

François & Hervé

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